foamie fanatic
Hi, I ride a foamie. I know it’s sad, but I have fun and that’s what it’s all about, isn’t it? Anyway, when I went for a week’s surfing over the Easter holidays I came back with deep, painful grazes on the tops of my feet, which I got from scraping them on the board as I got up. My leash also attacked me and did the same thing to my leg. I’m not being a wimp—it didn’t stop me from surfing all day, everyday, while I was there. But now I have scars all over my feet and lower leg to prove it. I realise boots would stop this but I hate them because you can’t feel where you are on the board. What can I do?
Also I want to say how shitty pop-outs are. They are always ridden by beginners who can’t control them and when they hit you it really f---ing hurts! In the summer my mum got hit by one and it nearly broke her arm. An additional injury nearly occurred because my father was ready to kill the poor bastard who hit her! Even now, a year later, my mum’s arm still occasionally hurts. Pop-outs should be banned.
Finally: girls, please get out there and surf. I feel very lonely being one of the few female surfers at the beach I normally surf. Get out there and show those weak little men how it’s done!
Holly

The reason you’re getting cut is because you’re dragging your feet as you get up. Foamie boards tend to be rough (especially when they get old) and they’re not exactly responsive, so aim to move on to a fibreglass mini-mal as soon as possible. Meantime, although boots will stop the grazing they won’t fix the problem. What you have to do is practice jumping to your feet in one fluid movement, so you land of the soles of your feet. Practice at home, you’ll soon solve your problem. —SE

Paddle power
I live in South Wales and go surfing as often as possible. I'm pretty good at getting up in broken waves but find it really difficult to get out the back to the decent stuff. So I was wondering if you could give me some tips on paddling more powerfully and getting through the whitewater.
Well done on a great mag!
W Davies, by e-mail

Okay, don’t worry. This is a problem commonly faced by beginners to intermediates faced with bigger surf. The first thing to say here is that if you haven’t got the strength or experience to paddle out through surf you should ask yourself if you have the ability to get yourself out of trouble if you do make it out the back.

The ocean has a great natural selection process ie if you’re not ready for it you’ll get nailed and end up back on the beach! My advice would be to stick at it. You’ll gradually build up your paddling strength (you could also supplement this with swimming). Watch the ocean and learn about the local rips and wave patterns, where to get in and just as importantly how to get back to shore.

Having said that if you’re still on a mini mal you’ll find it difficult to duck dive. For broken whitewater try straddling your board so you’re sitting on it, turn so you’re back is to the wave, hold on tight and just as the wave is about to hit you sit back into it. If the wave is going to break on top of you, try the roll. Grip the board by the rails about three quarters the way up and as the wave is about to break roll under the board holding it tightly above your head. If you’re already on a normal board it’s just a matter of practising duck diving until it clicks.
Good luck! —SE

DIVE! DIVE! DIVE!
I’m a 14-year-old grom from Sligo in Ireland. I switched to surfing from bodyboarding about a year ago, and I am progressing nicely. My only problem is that when the surf gets bigger than four feet I find it extremely difficult to duck dive, and I sometimes end up pissing off some of the older surfers. I think my technique is okay but I just can’t get deep enough. I’m a pretty small build and ride a 6’4”. Is it the case that I’m not heavy enough?
A grom who’s fed up with getting worked
Co Sligo, Ireland
PS Great mag!

Being a fat knacker who has no difficulty in sinking his board I’m probably not the right person to ask! Only joking. Unless you’re really light, or your board is really thick, you should be able to sink your board — it all comes down to technique. Try forcing your board down deeper by moving further up it (towards the nose) as you begin the dive, and sink the back end by putting your foot on the tail (instead of using your knee). This way you put far more power into the duck dive. Once you’re on the way down, you can also try bringing your free foot up along your board towards your chest and kicking it back to get a bit of extra push. Duck-diving bigger waves is all about timing, position and speed. Generally, the more speed you can get paddling into the dive, the more depth you can get on the push down. The rest is timing the ‘flick’ so you use the circular flow of power underneath the wave to push you up through the back. Try practising these techniques on smaller days to see how deep you can get. —SE

Getting started
I’m 13 and have been surfing for nearly four years. I thin I’m coming on well but I still have a slight problem getting to my feet. I take the drop kneeling then get up, but I tend to loose speed. This occurs only in a wetsuit, in boardies it’s easy, but most good waves are in the winter and I get pissed off. Is there an exercise that I can practise that will help me improve this.
Olly, Newquay

It sounds like your wetsuits a bit tight and restricting. You should be able to touch your toes without the neck strangling you. If you’re still not sure take it down to one of the shops, tell them we sent you and ask their opinion.

If your suit is OK but you still have problems try doing a few push up and squat thrusts to build up your strength. Also lie on your bedroom floor and practice jumping to your feet about fifty times a night until you’ve got it sussed. (Making sure you use the proper technique and get straight to your feet.) You’ll surprised how much it will help the next time you go out.

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